Few places have the vibe and verve that make this sprawling, cavernous space shimmy and sparkle. A former theater, Tao features a giant Buddha firmly towering over the dining room. A certain aura makes Tao stay exciting, so it's no wonder the specialty cocktails go down fast and the food all seems pleasantly attractive, though nothing particularly outstanding.

Tao still keeps going strong after a number of years, having magically achieved a successful formula early on: fetishize the exotic and push the pretty cocktails. Recommended appetizers are the chicken satay, the squab lettuce wraps, lobster wontons with shiitake ginger broth, and crisp lobster and shrimp dumplings. Best entrees are Hong Kong XO shrimp, wasabi-crusted filet mignon and soy ginger glazed salmon. Don't miss the XO Chinese long beans either. A big hit with tourists and the Midtown business crowd alike.